During the 2009 harvest, members of The Fyn (Denmark) Vintage Port Club visited Malvedos and were so impressed by the quinta and its wines, they conceived the idea of a major vertical tasting of just the single-quinta vintages. Dominic Symington and Gustavo Devesas, of Graham’s sales team, joined 33 members of the club in Odense last week for this incredible event, which was organised by Henning Borup Jensen.
If you are familiar with wine tasting events, you know flights start with the lighter weight or more delicately flavoured and move to the more complex and full-bodied wines. For this event, the tasting was broken into two flights with a pause in between. The group of younger wines were tasted from oldest (those which you would expect to have begun to mature into dried fruit or secondary flavours) to youngest (those whose fresh or jammy fruit flavours would still be very robust).
First Flight – Younger wines … oldest to youngest.
1992 – 1995 – 1998
2001 – 2004 – 2006
2008 – 2009 (cask sample)
For the second flight of older wines, they tasted from youngest to oldest, anticipating greater concentration and power in older vintages.
2nd. Half – Second Flight – Mature, Older wines … youngest to oldest.
1987 – 1984 – 1982
1979 – 1976 – 1968
1965 – 1962 – 1958
Dominic shared his tasting notes:
As you will see from the scores below, 1958 was the run-away favourite of the night! I don’t remember the last time I tasted this wine and it was a total revelation. The 1958 was extraordinary, virtually water clear with a pale pink tinge in the center of the wine but with a fantastic complex rich and deep floral nose and a huge rich full flavour on the palate. Really delicious with all the pepper and spice of a full bodied vintage port, lovely mature flavours with almost a hint of that transition from vintage flavours to the caramel tones of an old tawny.
The 1965 was also delicious, much more full bodied and weighty than the ’58 and would clearly have been the star of the night but was outshone by the surprise star. I know the ’65 reasonably well, it’s a superb wine, beautifully balanced with all the elegance of a fully mature old Vintage Port and more than confirms the fact that the single-quinta Malvedos is superb Vintage Port in its own right.
Gustavo also commented that the 1995 was showing very well, he personally rated it his third choice of the night after ’58 and ’65. 1995 is one of those years that is overshadowed by its illustrious predecessor, so the quality of this wine surprised and impressed everyone.
The evening was rounded off with an excellent dinner extremely generously offered by the Fyn (Denmark) Vintage Port Club at the Birk & Conrad event restaurant. Chef Stefan and his team, superbly led by Sommelier Niki produced and served an absolutely delicious dinner, which was accompanied by two of SFE’s Douro DOC wines: Pombal do Vesuvio & Quinta do Vesuvio, both 2008, which were extremely well received.
With the dessert course the group enjoyed Graham’s Vintage 1997 Port and also our 20 Year Old Tawny. Gustavo said he is no fan of chocolate, but the chocolate cake – four layers of chocolate sponge, from white chocolate through three intensities of dark chocolate – was an amazing pairing with the 20 Year Old Tawny. We all think of chocolate with ruby ports and vintages, but Gustavo said the nuttiness of the Tawny was enhanced, really set off, by that particular cake. He admitted he ate every crumb.
Dominic sent along the club’s final scores: They mark quite severely! The first set of points is the sum of individual preferences for the best wine of the night – 3 for best / 2 for middle / 1 for lowest.
Malvedos Vintage 1958 – 51 points (92 points)
Malvedos Vintage 1965 – 27 points (88 points)
Malvedos Vintage 1976 – 19 points (91 points)
Malvedos Vintage 1962 – 18 points (88 points)
Malvedos Vintage 1995 – 18 points (88 points)
Malvedos Vintage 2004 – 9 points (86 points)
Malvedos Vintage 1979 – 6 points (89 points)
Malvedos Vintage 1982 – 6 points (83 points)
Malvedos Vintage 1987 – 6 points (88 points)
Malvedos Vintage 1984 – 5 points (87 points)
Malvedos Vintage 1968 – 3 points (88 points)
Malvedos Vintage 1998 – 3 points (87 points)
Malvedos Vintage 2006 – 2 points (88 points)
Malvedos Vintage 2009 – 1 points (86 points)
Malvedos Vintage 1992 – 0 points (86 points)
Malvedos Vintage 2001 – 0 points (87 points)
Malvedos Vintage 2008 – 0 points (84 points)
If you read Danish, you may want to visit The Fyn (Denmark) Vintage Port Club website
However, no Danish needed to appreciate these photos of the evening including the dinner.